General information

Tomato palace characteristics and description of the variety

The environs of St. Petersburg do not indulge the summer residents with an abundance of sunny days or soil fertility. Plus, frequent rainfall, high humidity ... The conditions for growing tomatoes are not very suitable.

But after all, amateur gardeners, living in such a cold climate, want to grow good harvests! It is for this purpose that the breeder, the author of many books about the effective cultivation of vegetables Bekseev Sh.G. brought a variety of tomato Palace. In the Leningrad region, it is recommended for growing in greenhouses. In more southern latitudes, it will successfully grow and bear fruit also in conditions of open ground.

Main characteristics

  • Average - 130-160 cm.
  • Precocious.
  • Low seed.
  • Super-productive: more than 4.5 kg of fruits can be harvested from a single shrub with the proper agricultural technology, from 1 square meter. m - 12-14 kg.
  • Fruits of medium size: mostly 250-300 g, maximally grow to 600-700 g, round-flattened form. Bright red color with a smooth thin peel. Not prone to cracking. Perfectly suited for pickling, and for fresh consumption, for example, in salads.
  • Determinate variety.
  • It will be necessary to pinch and tie up bushes.
  • The first flower brush grows over the 6-7 leaf, the next - after every 3-4 leaf.
  • Sprawling bush with powerful trunks.
  • With proper care, it is sufficiently resistant to the main diseases of tomatoes and to sudden temperature changes.

On a note

  • An important feature: the plants of this variety are very “voracious”: in order to get a good harvest, they should be fertilized every 2-3 days. In the heat of a liquid dressing should be watered tomatoes more often - once every 1-2 days. At least, such an advice is given by the author of the variety Sh.G. Bekseev. And since frequent fertilizing implies abundant moisture, growing Dvortsovy tomato in a greenhouse, its doors should often be left open for ventilation. Otherwise, in conditions of high humidity, diseases may begin to develop.
  • In the period of flowering and fruit set, it is advisable to shake the bushes for better over-pollination.

Eat the seedlings

  • Sow 60-65 days before transplanting into a greenhouse or beds.
  • It is desirable to prepare the seeds for sowing - soak for 2-3 hours in biostimulants - "Epinay", "Zircon", "Ecosile". You can use aloe juice. To do this, the aloe leaf tree is cut from the plant a week before the procedure. And all this time they keep in the fridge so that biologically active substances become more active. Then squeeze the juice from the sheet, 1 teaspoon of it is diluted in 0.5 liters of water. Some liquid is poured from the can and seed is soaked in it.
  • Perlite, vermiculite, agr-peperlite can also become excellent primers for germinating seeds, along with the customary storehouse. They perfectly retain moisture, nutritionally - scarce, without the addition of fertilizers (they are absolutely unnecessary for seed germination and can even be harmful). The consistency is reminiscent of loose fine sand, so it is very convenient to extract sprouts with roots from such soils: even the smallest root processes are not injured.
  • The know-how of gardeners in the past few seasons is the germination of seeds in ... used tea bags. Those who used this technique say that the seeds sprout faster and supposedly receive an excellent “charge” for further growth in tea brewing, thereby developing faster, stronger and healthier, unlike seedlings grown in other conditions. You can try to experiment!
  • Shoots appear at a temperature of about + 20 degrees. Therefore, it is advisable to keep the sowing dishes before germination, for example, on the battery.
  • With the advent of the first true leaflets, shoots should be smashed into separate containers so that the emerging bush has enough power.
  • It is important to place the containers with seedlings on the lightest windowsill, ideally with a south, southeast or southwest orientation. If the sun shines very brightly at noon, the seedlings should be shaded. A great option for this - blinds on the windows. If they are not there, you can screen young plants with a sheet of paper leaning against the window glass.
  • Grow the seedlings should be - on the contrary, in a nutrient soil. You can use regular storehouse (“Rassadny”) or mix compost, garden soil and coarse sand (2: 2: 1).
  • The scourge of seedlings is the so-called “black leg”. It spreads with lightning speed. It so happens that almost all seedlings lie down for nothing in a bowl in a day. It starts with the fact that at the first patients the stem near the ground becomes thinner and darker: the young plant as if weakens and falls to the ground. For the prevention of this fungal disease, Fitosporin is used, it is introduced into the soil during its pre-sowing preparation.
  • Caring for seedlings is simple: timely watering, loosening of the soil (so that the air comes to the roots faster), combined with irrigation of the fertilizer with complex mineral fertilizers 1 time per week. It is better to reduce the dose of fertilizer recommended in the instructions by 2 times.
  • It is important to avoid drafts! Because of them, tomato seedlings can not only get sick, start to lag behind in development, but also die.
  • Growing plants stretch towards the heat and light of the sun, which is why still weak stems can be bent. Therefore, containers with seedlings should be periodically turned over with respect to the window glass of the opposite side.
  • Before planting in the open ground, it is desirable to temper the seedlings - gradually begin to accustom to the open air and lower night temperatures. You can take out to the veranda at first for several hours, gradually increasing this time. Then leave there for the night, later - put up to sleep in the yard. Quenching usually takes a couple of weeks. This procedure will help tomato bushes to adapt more quickly to new conditions, relieve growth retardation and help plants survive the transplant stress more quickly and with minimal loss.

Sowing in the greenhouse and in the open ground

  • Tomato seedlings are transplanted to the garden when positive night temperatures are established outside. It is important to be sure that the return frost is finally over.
  • On 1 square. m will feel comfortable and not be lacking in nutrients 3-4 bush.
  • The distance between rows and plants is 35-40 cm.

  • The depth of the planting hole is about 5 cm. Considering the fact that the soil on the garden bed was prepared in advance and improved by introducing, for example, horse manure (since autumn). If not, then the depth of the fossa should be made about 15-20 cm and the nutrient layer of the compost should be applied to the bottom with the addition of complex mineral fertilizers (application dose - as indicated in the instructions attached to the preparation). After all, the Palace Palace is a gluttonous variety! It is only important not to be carried away with excessive nitrogen, otherwise the foliage will grow abundantly and densely, to the detriment of the quality and size of the fruit.
  • About a week after planting, the bushes of tomatoes should be tied up and then done regularly as they grow.
  • It is ideal to leave one stem and allow 5-6 flower brushes to form on it. If the soil is very nutritious - then 6-7 m brushes. To stop the formation of floral brushes is very simple: it is enough to pinch the top of the bush at the right moment.
  • Be sure to remove unnecessary leaves: before the first brush - absolutely everything, above it - after one. When all the fruits are tied and approximately reach their size, it is necessary to remove all the leaves from the plant.
  • Do not forget to often feed and air the greenhouse well! The first feeding is 7-10 days after disembarkation, by this time the roots should have time to adapt in the new soil.